Manileno's guide to winter wear in Sapporo (and other cold places) part 2

We've officially entered the "ber months" in an otherwise bizarre and sad year.  Hitting September has most of us nostalgic over travels of not so long ago so just wanted to get up this entry on my guide to winter wear, Manileno style. 

Full disclaimer: I've not not been to every conceivable location in the world but I have done some travel in autumn, late autumn, winter and spring so here are some tips I've pieced together for those of you looking to build wardrobe for the cold weather in your next trip.. whenever that will be.

Part 2 of a two part series, after going through some basics, we can get down to more specific pieces I've used, tried out or maybe just seen in stores for our options.

Manileno's guide to base layers:

Uniqlo Heattech (status: purchased)

I've used Heattech for almost all of my trips, running the gamut from warm to ultra warm 

Here’s an approximation of ranges for each level 

HT Warm: 10-20 (degrees Celsius)

HT Extra warm: 5-15

HT Ultra warm: 10 degrees and colder

Pros: Decent warmth with varying levels to help you customize. readily available and affordable

Cons: none really but I wish they had an even warmer level. The ultra warm takes long to dry out when washed though 

Price range: P790 for warm, P990 for extra warm, P1290 for ultra warm

Verdict: 

Buy it. Relatively affordable while offering decent warmth. Readily available in MNL 

Under Armour cold gear (status: purchased)

I've used UA cold gear in US winters and during a trip to Kyoto in early December

Pros: warm, lightweight with great ventilation (less sweaty) and dries quickly after washing

Cons: not readily available in the Philippines, relatively expensive if you source from abroad

Price range: not readily available in MNL 

Verdict: 

Buy it if you can, but hard to source in MNL

Decathlon Wedze (status: purchased)

Used a pair of these during a trip to Sapporo (-5 to 10 degrees), both the basic and premium versions

Pros: cheaper than Uniqlo and UA

Cons: poor ventilation (I was sweating), was very itchy especially for the "premium" version

Price range: P280 for basic, P500 for middle market, P700 for premium 

Verdict: 

Don't bother. If you're on a budget, buy 2 or 3 Uniqlo HT Warm and simply wash them

Manileno's guide to insulation layers:

Uniqlo Ultra Light Down Parka (status: want it)

I have the version without the hood (Uniqlo ULD jacket) and I find it invaluable since you can pack it away into your backpack and bring it out when you need it. I keep one in my carry-on luggage and I’ve whipped it out upon arrival during winter trips to Milan and Sapporo. I do wish however I got the parka version, given that it has more down content and comes with a hood!

Pros: instant extra warmth and pack-able into a tight ball (picture below) for convenience 

Cons: Warm but not super warm all things considered. 

Price range: P3,990 

Verdict: 

Buy it! Warmth on demand.  

How I've used it: Pack it in your carry-on luggage and bring it out upon arrival to keep you alive until you can access your heavier jacket in your maleta. Won't stand up to extreme temperatures so don't go charging into subzero conditions with only this unless in tandem with other pieces.

Uniqlo fleece zip  (status: purchased)

Bought it as an add-on insulation layer to match with other pieces to build a system

Pros: Provides modest warmth and can act as 1st layer of insulation

Cons: None really except that fleece doesn't have good ventilation so I tend to sweat sometimes

Price range: P990 to P1,290 

Verdict: 

Buy it. Easy to mix and match with our pieces. Affordable

--On top of these examples you can also use an assortment of wool and fleece sweaters to act as additional insulation layers--

Manileno's guide to outer layers:

Uniqlo's Blocktech parka (status: tried it out in store)

I've tried this out in the store and it claims to have excellent wind and water protection

Pros: Water and windproof 

Cons: Almost no insulation, does not allow "volting-in" with other Uniqlo insulation layers 

Price range: P2,990 

Verdict: 

Consider it.  Affordable outer shell in case you want to pickup a jacket with good wind/water protection.

Notes: Several reviewers have said this jacket tends to run small, so you might want to get a size bigger than your usual. 

Uniqlo seamless down parka (status: purchased)

Used in Tokyo (5 degrees) and Sapporo (-5 degrees) in late December. Not stylish and surprisingly did not hold up well in terms of warmth!

Pros: Down jacket, water repellent material

Cons: Disappointing in terms of warmth. Bulky, so jacket was hard to pack! 

Price range: P7,999

Verdict: 

Don’t bother with this. Expensive and doesn't pack a lot of heat. Oh did I mention it's hard to pack??

How I've used it: Had to augment with a Uniqlo fleece zip shirt given lack of insulation power.  A better alternative to this jacket is to get a 1) ULD parka and 2) pair with a fleece hoodie, cost will be lower at comparable warmth with more flexibility.

Uniqlo reversible parka (status: purchased)

This jacket pairs a water repellent layer with a thin cotton lining that technically is "reversible" but I generally use it with the cotton layer on the inside.  The jacket is easy to pack away and has been designated as the "PPE" jacket for our flights.  The jacket will be perfect for airport temperatures and on the airplane but at best can be used as an outer layer for early fall.  

Price range: P1,990

Verdict:  

Buy it.  Versatile and affordable.  

Notes: Relatively inexpensive jacket that you can use as PPE on the plane. Can also be used as a light jacket in early Autumn and double duty as a rain jacket in Manila.    

Manileno's guide to "System Jackets"

The best jacket for me is one that pairs a waterproof shell with a warm insulation layer with the two usually able to "volt-in" by way of zippers.  This also allows you to use just the outer layer as a windbreaker/rain jacket or the warm insulation layer as a stand-alone sweater, making the system jacket a versatile and must-have piece in your winter wonderland wardrobe. 

Premium system jackets such as the "Interchange" jackets from Columbia or the Tri-climate jacket series of North Face's provide excellent wind protection with an insulation layer for even the coldest trips to Sapporo or the Nordics. These system jackets only need to be augmented by an additional sweater for subzero temperature and I believe you'll be good to go.  

Columbia's Park Run Jacket (status: purchased)

An "Interchange" system jacket that features a water and windproof shell paired with Columbia's down insulation layer.  Special technology found on this jacket is Columbia's patented Omni Heat, which "reflects" heat back to your body.  My best purchase so far. 

Tested in -10 degree winter in Sapporo and held up well.  

Pros: Water and windproof shell, very warm down lining. Omni Heat is a game changer.

Cons: Pricey and this particular interchange jacket is only available in Japan

Price range: not available in Manila but there are alternatives available in PHL like  Columbia's Whirlibird interchange jacket at Zalora or at the Columbia Store in Greenbelt 

Verdict: A premium jacket but there are other decent alternatives available in MNL

Uniqlo's hybrid down parka (status: purchased)

Used in Europe in late November (8-15 degrees) and also in Tokyo early in December (10 degrees). Not very stylish (a tad bit boxy eh?) but gets the job done

Pros: Water repellent shell. Has a zip-in down lining so can be used in early winter. Hooded

Cons: Won't win any style points vs a Zara wool coat. Down lining is very thin, you'll need more layers of insulation for deep winter.  Outer shell is water repellent but not waterproof. 

Price range: P4,999

Verdict: Consider it.

Notes: Affordable system jacket, but you'll need to augment with more layers if you're planning on using this in frigid temperature.  Hood is not lined so make sure your additional insulation layer has a hood. Water repellent shell offers modest wind and water protection but will not likely hold up well vs harsher climates.

Manileno's guide for peripherals: bonnets, socks and mittens

I've tried three brands for peripherals and I would suggest to either stick with Uniqlo if you're on a budget or go all in with Columbia.  

Uniqlo offers a good range of Heattech gear at decent prices but you may have to sacrifice some heat retention as most offer only modest insulation with little or no wool content.  Verdict, they won't offer much resistance in subzero temperatures so plan to use these for not so harsh climates.  For example, I used Uniqlo's HT gloves in subzero temperature in Vienna and Sapporo and the cold went right through. I had to buy a pair of gloves onsite.   

Meanwhile, higher-end brands like North Face and Columbia usually utilize wool and offer other technologies, like Columbia's Omniheat reflective material which for me is a game changer in terms of staying warm.  They may be a little pricey but if you're heading off the Arctic circle, you might want to invest in some of these pieces.   

On the low end of the spectrum would be stuff from Decathlon but almost all of the gear I've used from there offered poor heat retention and had terrible ventilation.  

Verdict: Best bang for buck will always be Uniqlo but if you go extreme temperatures, don't expect them to hold up very well. 

Parting shot: the DIY system jacket

System jackets like the North Faces and Columbia will be the perfect piece for any winter wonderland wardrobe given their versatility and performance but they are on the pricey side (roughly Php15,000 to Php18,000).  However one can always whip together a DIY"system jacket" based on pieces from Uniqlo. Here's are some examples for system jackets

Option 1: High end

Columbia's Bugaboo/Whirlibird interchange or NorthFace's Arrowood/Thermoball Triclimate (P13,000-18,000) = waterproof shell + moderate/excellent insulation layer.

Outer shell: Water and wind proof 

Insulation: 

Fleece: Columbia Bugaboo and TNF Arrowood (moderate) 

Down: Columbia Whirlibird and TNF Thermoball (excellent)

Verdict: Consider it although a bit pricey

Notes: Great wind protection and inner layers "volt-in" to the outer shell. Technologies like Thermoball from North Face and Omni-Heat by Columbia set them apart. Expensive though.

Option 2: The "Deluxe" Uniqlo DIY system jacket #1 

Uniqlo (Blocktech parka) + (ULD parka) + Optional-(wool sweater or zip fleece) 

Total cost: (P2,999 + P3,999) = P6,998

Outer shell: Water and wind proof

Insulation: 

1st layer: Moderate warmth. ULD parka offers decent but not great level of heat retention

The insulation for ULD won’t be too warm so you can add a 2nd layer if you’re facing colder temperatures 

Optional 2nd layer: For light winter- Uniqlo middle gauge mock but for harsher climates use Zip Fleece jacket

Total cost: (P2,999 + P3,999 + 1,990) = P8,998

Verdict: This DIY version is as warm as DIYs go.  Decent wind protection and modest insulation could be good enough for subzero temperature granted you have very good base layers and full set of peripherals (bonnet, mittens, socks). 

Notes: The Blocktech parka has limited to no lining so augment with a ULD parka (the one with hood).  For not so cold climates you can tack on a merino wool cardigan/Middle gauge mock sweater during light winter but for sub zeros you'll likely need the zip fleece as 3rd layer. This will get a little bulky so you might want to oversized the outer Blocktech Parka layer.

Option 3: The "Lite" Uniqlo DIY system jacket #2:

Uniqlo (Hybrid down jacket) + (Zip fleece)

Total cost: (P4,999 + P1,299) = P6,298

Outer shell: Water and wind repellent

Insulation: 

1st layer: Marginal warmth. Very thin layer of down, equivalent to ULD compact jacket

2nd layer: Modest warmth. Fleece jacket should help augment insulation 

Verdict: This setup is an affordable system jacket (you can "volt-in" the down lining into the outer shell) but you will definitely not get close to the performance of the North Faces and Columbias of the world.  Use this DIY system jacket in autumn or at most early winter as this will not likely hold up well in very harsh or subzero conditions.

Notes: The down lining is rather thin so the 2nd layer is a must. Add on Uniqlo Zip fleece hoodie to increase insulation.  The outer shell is water repellent and NOT water proof. This is the “Lite” DIY version so if you do want to use this in deep winter or subzero temperatures, do compensate with very warm base layers, maybe an extra merino wool cardigan and the best available peripherals of bonnets and mittens.

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So hope that you were able to get some good tips for shopping and building your winter wonderland wardrobe and good luck on your snowy adventure, hopefully in the not so distant future! 

Manileno's guide to winter wear in Sapporo (and other cold places) part 1

We've officially entered the "ber months" in an otherwise bizarre and sad year.  Hitting September has most of us nostalgic over travels of not so long ago so just wanted to hit up this entry on my guide to winter wear, Manileno style. 

Full disclaimer: I've not not been to every conceivable location in the world but i have done some travel in autumn, late autumn, winter and spring so here are some tips I've pieced together for those of you looking to build wardrobe for the cold weather in your next trip.. whenever that will be.

Part 1 of a two part series, we'll start with some basics then get down to more specific pieces I've used, tried out or maybe just seen in stores for our options.

How to keep warm?

This is one question I've asked myself numerous times given how "ginawin" I am.  Staying warm in non-tropical weather revolves around two things:

1) Heat retention

2) Heat protection

Whenever we think about what we need to get as "cold gear" we need to think, how will this piece of clothing help me generate heat and how will this piece of clothing help protect/retain the heat my body is generating?

Heat generation

Heat retention can be achieved by wearing clothes made of materials that insulate your heat or in some cases, even amplify the amount of heat you are generating.  This is usually attained by clothing made up of wool, fleece or goose feathers (down). 

Heat protection/retention

Oftentimes I would equate this with "wind protection" as cold air blaring in your face will strip away any heat off your body no matter how much "heat retention" your outfit offers.  This is generally achieved through wearing clothes (usually the outermost layer of clothing) that aren't permeable.  Most waterproof or water resistant jackets generally offer some form of wind protection but not all waterproof materials are created equal.

Cold air gusts are the reason why we have "wind chill factor" which is something you also need to account for on top of the forecast temperature for the day.

Now that we know the two ways to stay warm here are some tips that (I'm sure you all know) may be helpful in your cold weather gear build up.

1) Tip #1: layering is key

2) Tip #2: watch the extremities

3) Tip #3: moisture control is just as important

Tip#1: Layering is key

Oftentimes we can gauge how cold a place will be based on the number of "layers" you need to wear.  Of course, cold is relative so 5 layers for me may be your "4 layers" weather or my 5 layers is colder than your 6 layers and so forth. Two things i wanted to share about layering

a) A better structured layering concept is better than having less "thick" layers.  Whenever we're traveling we need to be ready to face blistering cold temperatures but we also need to be aware that we won't be in the coldest of the cold ALL THE TIME.  There will be times we enter a store for a meal with cold but not freezing temperatures. Having a good structure of layers allows you to "peel off layers" to achieve the right amount of warmth for the places you will visit. Harder to do if you only have 3 really thick layers as once you take off one layer you're not left much to protect yourself.  Just my suggestion but i guess you can get away with it that is your style.

b) Order matters.  Taking into account our two ways to achieve warmth (heat insulation + wind protection) setting up a proper sequence for layering a system is key with more insulation needed the closer to your body (inner layers) and the less when you move out.  Meanwhile, as you move on to outer layers, you must also ensure increased levels of wind protection especially for your outer shell layer.  Lastly, also remember tip#3 which is coming up, with inner layers needing more moisture control (ventilation) to limit sweating. 

Tip#2: Protect the extremities

This is something I learned from my dad.  Heat generally escapes from your extremities; i.e. your hands your feet and your head.  So make sure you apply the concepts of heat retention and wind protection to all the tips of your body.  This makes head gear, mittens and a good pair of shoes important with each piece of your winter wonderland outfit incorporating just enough heat retention and wind protection as well.  

Tip#3: Moisture control is just as important

On top of having clothes that help retain heat, you also need to make sure that you control the moisture that can and will build up underneath all those layers, usually done by wearing materials that offer good ventilation.  

Yes you can achieve a warm winter system jacket but if you're sweating underneath and your back is wet, you're just as likely to catch a cold.  Thus on top of looking for clothing that helps retain heat, also consider if the material you've chosen has the ability to "wick away" moisture without slippage in heat retention.  Same concept applies to all pieces of your gear so keeping your feet dry and your hands dry are important as well. 

So now that we've gotten through the basics, let's get you started in building your winter wonderland wardrobe. Follow these steps as loosely as you want, always making adjustments given that your cold is different from my cold. 

Step 1: The base layer

This is what we generally refer to as "thermal underwear", which are usually long (my dad still refers to them as long johns) and cover as much as your body as possible.  They are also usually "body fit" so expect and look for them to fit close to the skin as this helps retain body heat.  Several options are available to you and I'll mention those that I've tried out.   The few that I've tried range from relatively pricey (Body Armour) to less expensive but not too comfortable (Marks and Spencer) all the way to the ones sold by Decathlon, which I would not suggest given they had almost zero moisture control.  

By far the best choice for me would be the ones sold by Uniqlo given their relative affordable price tag, decent warmth and flexibility with three levels of warmth to choose from. The spectrum moves from Warm, Extra Warm to finally Ultra Warm, progressively getting thicker.  

What I like about them is that they provide a decent balance between heat retention and moisture control, all in a nice affordable price tag. Wondering which one to get? Here's my approximation for the temperature each level of warmth can handle, all in Celsius

Warm: between 10-20 degrees 

Extra warm: between 5-15 degrees

Ultra warm: anything colder than 10 degrees 

I generally bring two types in each trip to increase flexibility. So if its rather warm, i would tend to bring a couple of sets of the Warm with one or two "just in case" sets of Extra Warm. If your destination would be on the cold side all throughout (Sapporo or Finland) then i guess you bring the Ultra warm version exclusively.

A big part of the base layer is your footwear! So don't forget to pick up a good pair of warm socks that should help check off the "extremities matter" box.  In the Philippines I do know that Uniqlo carries a range of Heattech socks at relatively affordable prices.  The one drawback is that non of them (at least the ones I've seen so far) have wool content, which means that they may be warm compared to cotton socks but they're not likely to keep your toes toasty in sub zero temperature.  

If you're not heading off to some heavy snow capped areas then the Uniqlo Heattech socks should hold up just fine (granted of course you have a good set of waterproof shoes/boots.

Step 2: layers of insulation

You can get creative here with one or two layers of cardigans, sweaters zip ups and hoodies to provide you with a zone that helps your body retain as much body heat as possible.  As discussed above, there are several options for these in-between layers with materials of wool, fleece and down the usual weapons of choice.  Insulation can be a stand alone layer or one that is built into your outer layer. I generally have at least two layers of insulation:

 

1) a wool cardigan (for warmer temperatures) or a zip up fleece shirt for heavy action as my 1st layer 

2) a built-in insulation layer of Down in my outer layer acting as my 2nd line of insulation

These two layers should help your body retain enough heat and should you venture into colder temperatures you can either add a layer or swap out one of the layers with something thicker.  

I would tend to say based on my experience that Down provides the most warmth, followed by Fleece then lastly Wool (I could be wrong of course). 

Step 3: the Outer shell       

This is the last piece to the puzzle and choosing an outer shell is crucial to keeping your warm in colder climates.  Wind protection is just as important as heat retention and i learned this the hard way when i visited Vienna in the winter. I had a heavy wool coat with several layers of insulation but almost zero wind protection.  The polar vortex came through the platz and bye bye warmth. 

Thus, always make it a point to bring at least one backup outer shell that provides wind protection to help ensure all that warmth you've worked hard to generate stays with you.  What's more, wind protection usually coincides with rain protection which would come in handy when it starts snowing. 

One good option would be to get a waterproof outer shell that can zip in a layer of insulation.  Many examples of these "system" jackets are available in the market with North Face's Triclimate edition and Columbia's Interchange system jackets two of the more prominent examples.  More price friendly versions are available at Uniqlo and i do remember seeing some at Decathlon.  

With this blogpost quite long, I'll stop right here and give you guys more concrete examples of pieces I've used or tried out to help you in your winterwonderland outfit buildup.  

Do check out part two of this blogpost in my next entry: 

Manileno's guide to winter wear for Sapporo (and other cold places) part 2